Urbanoutlaw

"Mexican Radio" by Wall of Voodoo.

About bloody time! (If there is skydiving.)

Next part, the rod that connects the hub to the brake pedal. I picked up some 1/4" rod stock for this, placed it so I can mark & cut to length. The only Vise I have right now is on the drill press, but it works. A stop at the grinder... ...& it's ready for threading Originally I welded a nut to the end to attach to the transfer rod. I want plenty of adjustment so I measure 1 1/2 inches to thread. My toolbox makes a handy fixture to hold the rod for threading. One more step finished. I decided the original plan may or may not be strong enough so I remove the nut & put a bolt on the end. This should allow for a stronger weld. Once welded & dressed w/ the grinder I clean up the threads. This part gets Satin Silver. Finished & installed. This just in: Micheal Jackson is valiantly maintaining his fight to remain dead. More on this as it develops.

Suddenly there's a paperclip shortage... While paint was drying earlier I handled some other things. I need something to keep the rear break in one place when I use it & the hardware is missing, Here's an exploded view of what's supposed to be there. Outlaw Engineering to the rescue. The yellow line represents the part I'll make. A quickie blueprint of what I want to make. Note the flat steel bar next to the fender. I want a rounded end so I use a washer as a template. The white paint makes it easier to see the marks from my Sharpie. The guy who owns the building is pretty cool about using his stuff, like the drill press (I use it more than he does). Same for the little bench grinder. All dressed up & ready to go. I set the flat in place & mark it for length. The 3/8 bolt I use for the other half needs ground down, represented by the red line. Ready for the next step. A 3/8 nut welded to the end of the bolt will serve as an upper mount & adjustment away from frame. The flat is bent in 2 places to gain clearance from the frame & chain. Any vice works nicely for good results. My little grinder is still holding in there, quick & easy to cut the flat. I welded a left over barrel nut from the shifter to tie it all together & allow adjustment for length. All that's left is a quick stop at my high dollar painting facility.... ....& PRESTO! The finished part in place. The tab is threaded for the top bolt & there's a jamb nut between the tab & the head of the bolt to lock it down. I'll have more later this week.

The original GTA3 islands would make a nice map mod for GTA4, but even if the new Liberty was a continuation of GTA3 there wouldn't be much left of the Leone Family. Don't forget the first mission Claude had when he reached the second island.

I don't remember you pissing anyone off too bad but yeah, I saw you around. Welcome back

"Peter Gunn" - by Art of Noise.

BTW- The Allenhead sockets pictured above are tools I've had for longer than most of you've been alive, about 25 years. The pic is blurry but it gives you an idea of how the clutch cable hangs out. I pull the "C" clip holding the clutch handle to the perch. I also loosen the clutch adjustment for slack. Now the cable hangs loose & I can mount it down. Quick & easy, hose clamps will hold the cable out of harm's way. Done w/ that part, gets it done. It never fails. Closer examination of the perch shows it's....FUBAR!!! The part is made of pot metal & has 2 steel bolts busted off in it. Tough pot metal. Local parts shop had the same exact part for $25 (for the whole assembly), one of the few actual parts I'll need to buy for the project. While I'm at, I picked up more...you guessed it, Allenheads. Enough for both sides (4 each)so they match. Finished effect. Tune in next time to learn how to make a thermal nuclear device from duct tape & 3 paper clips.

DidjamissmeI'm BAAAACK!!! The guy I got the bike from said this was my electrical system..... Next I pull the sprocket cover to get at the chain. There's no master link, so the chain has to be removed the hard way. I pull the brake strut & loosen the adjusters (1 each side). Next is the axle nut. I seem to be missing some hardware, I'll fix that shortly. Leave the nut on a couple turns & gently tap w/ a mallet (wood or plastic) to pop the axle loose, then remove the nut & pull the axle out from the other side. The rear mount for the fuel tanks is handy for lifting the whole bike to get access to the underside. The other end of the chain is looped under the handlebars & ..... ...UP, UP & AWAY! (I love that engine hoist.) Wow, extra greasy. I go ahead & remove the line from the oil pump & clip the wire from the points to the coil. These 2 bolts (& the other 2 on the opposite side) held the original rear frame. The hardtail conversion was welded properly so I'm ditching the bolts. No, that's not a sports drink. It's my industrial degreaser. Through the magic of photography we skip over the spraying to this point. the underside & most of the rest is now a nice Royal Blue. When I'm doing the spine I see an issue, a bad chop. The spine was pieced together from 3 sections. At least it's straight lengthwise. BTW, Obama Motors has acquired a motorcycle company & is pleased to introduce the Paperhead. Anyway, back to painting. I get the spots on top that weren't open while the bike was hanging. The front motor mount is up next. It was rusty & greasy ( ). A quick dip in the parts washer... ... followed buy some sanding... .... & ready to paint. There's a clearance issue so I swap out the original nuts for flange nuts. The mounts attached to the engine. The other bolts are the ones that mount the forward controls. I had a little overspray, no big ... ... I also have the cure. One control is painted (the shifter I rebuilt) & one is chrome. One control rod is chrome & one is black, both look like fubar. Time for more paint. The shifter came out better than I expected so the brake will get the same treatment. I remove the foot & toe pegs. The rods were sanded & painted to match the frame, now everything's drying. The controls, break transfer & battery box reinstalled. they came out nice. Since the white I used is engine paint, I'm thinking of painting the cylinders & heads the same (currently faded black). The rocker boxes (worn chrome will probably be satin silver). Eventually I'll strip the bike down & fix all the little problems w/ the frame, going for show quality, but for now it'll get me on the road & look decent. I'll be back later w/ more pics of the rear wheel & axle.

Pinto was also a pony in the "old west". Little Joe rode one in Bonanza. http://bonanzaworld.net/bwgallery/gallery/...um=16&pos=3

Anywhere from $3k (basket case) on up, depends on what you want. I've seen decent ones around $11-20k at the dealers. I'll have more later, painting the frame & hardware today.

Just for the record, I HAVE mowed my lawn & found an automobile (a '78 Dodge, I put a battery in it & it ran). Good thing I like runnin' w/ you.

What are you playin'?

Whadd'up homey peoples?!?! Been busy the last few days w/ a couple other projects & helping the landlord on some of his stuff (he's cool so it's no prob). In the mean time I've got some more pics I got while I was letting paint dry on that fender. Here's our old pal the voltage regulator! The original powder coating was pretty rough & the part wasn't prepped right so some of it peeled off w/ just my thumbnail. The rest was stuck pretty hard. Note the pieces I peeled off in the foreground. The sandblaster just wasn't doing it, the plastic coat absorbed most of the force so I decided on plan "B". My field expedient bench grinder in action. That's more like it, the wire brush made short work. Watch your hands, it'll make short work of them also. The anodized finish on the base wasn't quite what I wanted so I masked it for painting too. The satin silver looked just right... ... but the Ford engine blue didn't. I'll fix that in a minute but first I have some other work. The holes for attaching the wiring were worn so I drilled them to the next size up & tapped for (you guessed it) Allenheads. I picked up a small tap & die set, including the #8 (cover screws) & #10 (wiring) sizes for the new hardware. The finished part just didn't look quite right so I decided to go w/ a darker blue than this. Just something to show the comparison between the 2 colors, see the finished part in the last pic in previous post. I'm starting to mess w/ the fuel tanks & have some other stuff I'll post as I go. UO out.

If you have version 1.0 it's already in the game, you just need a utility to unlock Hot Coffee (google it). If you have patched V1, V2 or V3 you need to downgrade. No experience, mine is an original release V1. Millie (LV GF) - .

I don't suppose anyone has found the DARKEL script code?

Ganton kitchen - Sawed-off shotgun, AK, Tec-9 & molotovs. Doherty Garage - Pump shotgun, sniper rifle, Mac-10 & grenades. Four Dragons - Spas shotgun, MP-5, M-4 & satchels.

It's later, I'm back. The primer's dry & it's time to go after the small blemishes so I hit it w/ another guide coat. Again the dark spots are the low ones, this time smaller & not worth the trouble of filler. I'll use spot putty here, intended for thinner applications. No mixing needed & dries fast. As I said, thinner applications but now the fender's nice & smooth after sanding w/ medium 150 grit. Electric sander + wet sanding = bad & will probably get you entered into the Darwin awards. A block w/ 220 wet/dry is next. Results are fairly quick w/ light pressure. For edges & corners loose the block & use light pressure to form the paper around the part. Nice thing about the wet/dry, you can clean it w/ water & it lasts longer. Ready for the last coat of primer. The primer's dry & we're ready to paint. Yes, I've been doing this w/ spray cans as my paint gear's still buried in storage. A quick pass w/ Scotchbrite gives the surface something for the paint to grip. I was pleasently surprised at the nice gloss the white engine paint had when it dried. I went w/ this figuring if the paint would look good on an a hot greasy engine it would hold up nicely for this. After 2 days to dry I layed out the stripes w/ masking tape. The center was free-handed & I made the stripes 1 1/4" wide. Note the light marks to place the outside of the stripes. Pull a long piece of tape & follow the guide marks, Now that the stripes are laid out I'm ready form more paint. One last pass w/ the Scotchbrite. Blue stripes are done, just need a day for them to dry. Note the sharp angle I'm pulling the tape at. This way it doesn't pull up the edge of the stripe. The stripes came out nice. Remember the blind fittings I installed earlier? Time to clear them out w/ the thread tap. Just a quick pass in & out does the job. Here's the final effect, white base color w/ royal blue stripes & satin silver details. I did the voltage regulator while I was waiting for filler & paint to set up or dry. Later.

Huskypepperonifile.

Editing GTA3.IMG shouldn't affect your game, if there's any problem there the game will just crash. No experience w/ trainers but if the save game editor's like mine that shouldn't be a problem, in fact it should have a selection to reset TIMES CHEATED to 0 & would prevent cheat traps. Those guys usually want DATA files left out of DL'd copies. The only useful thing I can think of is your save got corrupted, sorry I can't be more help.

That darn Husky, tisk tisk. You're close MS but you want the last 2 entries in the VEHICLES.IDE line for your car, they set the size of the wheels. San Andreas isn't set up to keep track of each individual car's wheel size so when you change the size for your car every one that shows up will have the same size wheels. As for parts not showing up, You'll run into a few cars that are just slapped together & thrown up on the web. They may or may not have decent readme files & most won't support tuning parts. Best advice there is change them one at a time & test them. Good luck.

"Outta Space", Billy Preston. Just gave to "Tequila", Leningrad Cowboys.

You mean a random topic, last one got pretty ridiculous.

It's been a couple days, mainly because it takes time for paint to properly dry. Now that the last guide coat's dry it shows the remaining blemishes. they're not that big but they're enough to screw up a paintjob. Another annoyance. This replaces yet another tool that disappeared, a good Craftsman vibrating sander. I'll be lucky if this one survives the fender & tanks. Loaded w/ 150 grit it'll remove all but the smallest blemishes. Now it's ready for primer. More drying time required, this time for the primer. Back later.

You'll probably catch some flak for bumping a four year old topic, ignore it you have a good question. In that four years similar issues have come up & many times it turns out a game was saved w/ a cheat was activated. have you saved after using a cheat or are you running any mods?