Vengence is mine.

[Urbanoutlaw]

(Fresh pics to follow.)

I won't go into detail as to why, but things in my life have recently changed. I decided the best way to deal w/ this is

something I should have done years ago but was too tied w/ responsibilities & obligations to do. For years people asked

"Where's the Harley?" I would just smile & point at the girlfriend's grandkid or whatever else always seemed to pop up.

Then I heard about a project bike, needing work but relatively cheap. I met the guy & checked out the bike & in just a

few minutes struck a deal & shook hands. Originally I was looking to build something like a Zombie but this one just

felt right. The name, Vengence, just jumped out to me & fits.

He wanted $3000 & we kicked it back & forth, found out he was interested in a '93 Jimmy I had & decided it was worth

half, great for me as I got the Jimmy out of some trading last year & was actually $50 ahead on that one. To top it off

his neighbor wants my '63 Rambler so that puts some on my cash back in my pocket & my final cash outlay at under

$1100. No one I know remembers the last time anyone found a Harley basket case for under $3000, let alone one

that was fairly complete & nearly running. Ironically, the plates on the Jimmy expired the day after the deal was

completed.

Frame - '82 Harley XL, converted to "weld-on" hardtail. Husky compared it to Johnny's Hexer & it would be a pretty easy

build to build one starting here, just re-angle the gooseneck (where the front forks attach) & add the springer front end.

Engine - Early '70s Harley XL 1000 AKA Sportster (good eye Huck), warmed over just a little w/ S&S carb & intake. The

cams may also be S&S parts & the bike is reputed to be fast. Allegedly dynos out to 85 HP +/-, real good for oldschool

60 CID twins.

Other details - "Fat Bob" gas tanks, drag bars, drag pipes & custom "solo" seat (note the lack of rear seat or foot pegs,

those will have to be earned).

Problems needing attention - At first glance it looks complete, but on closer inspection various systems need to be

re-assembled like the brakes, fuel lines, wiring & a few other details. The starter is also busted & needs to be pulled,

possibly a project for this weekend (sick lately & depends on weather).

[Mpilk901]

That looks like a beast UO, nice! Hope you get everything sorted for it soon. Looks like you got a pretty sweet deal.

You have the beard for it so you deserve a bike

[steveplayer]

This project totally suits you! I would have thought you had a Harley already, better late than never man lol

I DEMAND PROGRESS PICS!

[Urbanoutlaw]

Like I said, responsibilities & obligations, but now I have it.

Just finished up for the day, got a little bit done (pics are on my kid's camera, have to get them tomorrow). Got the

starter assembly off & learned a couple things.

1) The primary cover DOES NOT have come off to remove the starter (was told it did).

2) The primary cover holds about a quart (liter) of gear oil (was also told it wouldn't spill anything).

But it gave me a chance to check out the primary drive, a 2" wide chain between the engine & transmission. It could

use a minor adjustment, but is otherwise in good shape.

The rear exhaust pipe & oil tank did have to come off but once out of the way, the starter pulled right out to the right

side. All the looseness is from missing bolts inside the starter itself & that's an easy fix, & the brushed, magnets & stator

all look good. The problem is that the brass stud that the battery cable attaches to is broke off flush to the case. Hope

I can fix that, otherwise I'll be looking for a $200 starter. Ouch, Harley parts are expensive.

Also checked out the rear brake & it looks okay, just missing the rod between the rear hub & the pedal. While the oil

tank's off I might look at a nice big horseshoe tank & upgraded oil filter & cooler.

[WRX22B1998]

haha sweet bike

looks pretty nice, and sounds like you got it for a bargain.

[Urbanoutlaw]

A couple wrench time pics, before & after pulling the Primary Cover -

I'll be back later w/ more pics.

[Husky]

Urban, does your Bike backfire? Oh and are you switching your engine with something new? Or are you going to modify it? Yes I would love to see how this progresses!

[Urbanoutlaw]

Backfire - Right now it doesn't run, but it probably will a little.

Engine - Already warmed over a little & in good shape, so I'll keep it. I'm planning on leaving this one as an old school

bare knuckles bike.

If all goes well w/ this one, I'll be looking for more projects to make $$$ to support my habit (this one, I'm keeping).

TODAY'S PROGRESS - Not much, waiting on a paycheck. Yesterday I got the battery checked out (it's FUBAR)

& tore into the starter, chased up the missing hardware (about $3 worth) figured out how to fix the broken stud that the

battery cable attaches to (broken off flush w/ case). If I get paid today I'll pick up a bench grinder & fix it.

If not I have a quite night of Family Guy to look forward to.

[Urbanoutlaw]

As promised -

When I took delivery, the starter was a mess, missing bolts & the whole thing wobbling loosely.

The Starter Assembly as removed from the bike.

Back of assembly. Bendix is in good shape & all parts move freely.

Start by removing the motor from the assembly.

Now I use a large straighthead to gently pry the motor off.

Here's the Motor by itself.

Not the best pic, but you get the idea. The brass stud is the connection to the battery & it's broken too short to use....

....so here's my solution, a barrel nut to get out past the case.

Since the barrel nut is considerably larger, I'll need to grind it down. The red lines approximate how much I need

to remove.

Here's the endcap before the repair.

Here it is as I open the slot.

The stud needs to be insulated from the case, 5/16 ID rubber fuel line is just the ticket.

Another (not) great pic, Black silicone is applied around the fuel line to seal the case from moisture. Someone gets

a point for making the finger sized tube for a couple bucks, a lot less to go to waste when the tube dries up.

The completed starter assembly, dressed up a little w/ Allenhead bolts including a little one to secure the starter cable

to the repaired stud. The cable end is sandwiched between 2 flat washers. Bench test shows a draw of less than 90

amps.

Here's where it goes. Not the removal of the rear pipe to gain access.

The main bolts were also replaced w/ new Allenheads.

Finished. The starter cable was re-routed to clear the rear pipe.

While running today I made a connection to a local club & they sound like they can hook me up w/ various bits for a

decent price. Back in a couple days when I get that paycheck.

Edited June 10, 2009 by Urbanoutlaw

[Huckleberry Pie]

Nice... Oh, and how much is your bike's engine displacement? And what about teh dyno benchmark results?

[Urbanoutlaw]

It's a 1000 (60 CID) & is supposed to dyno out between 85 & 90 horse.

[Huckleberry Pie]

It's a 1000 (60 CID) & is supposed to dyno out between 85 & 90 horse.

And that's pretty much decent. I guess you can pretty much get a Sportster for about 250 to 300 thousand pesos in the Philippines, although my dad apparently had no plans on buying one, opting instead for a Honda Super Four. He did test-rode a Harley recently (a customised Evo Sportster, if I'm not mistaken), though.

[Urbanoutlaw]

No new pics today, but the kickstand is fixed now stays on. Also removed the ignition switch from between the heads

& will relocate it to the left side, opposite the oil tank. I also got the petcock out of the gas tanks & checked it out. A

little carb cleaner should clean that right up.

I think tomorrow I'll get the drive chain on, maybe clean out the gas tanks & continue little tweaks.

Later.

[Urbanoutlaw]

Not a lot today, just some running after hardware (more Allenheads for the drive sprocket cover & misc. hardware)

& caught up w/ someone whom has some parts I need for the brakes.

Got to the drive chain today. No master link so the back wheel had to come off, good thing for that. The hub was not

quite 1/4 inch narrower than the frame & wouldn't tighten properly, definitely not road worthy. A couple well placed flat washers fixed that.

Other than that, continued some of the minor cleaning & identified the next problem. The shifter hits the front pipe &

interferes w/ changing gears. Probably get some pics of that for you guys.

[Sherman]

It's awesome seeing a documentation of all of this dude, def keep us updated. Once more stuff starts coming in for the ol' Accord I'll have to make one of these threads Cuz I have a LOT to do for it this summer.

[Urbanoutlaw]

Yeah, this one of several projects. I also want to start fixing up my '72 Galaxie & have been working on a '77 Pinto

(actually a collectable car, a steel-side Cruiser Wagon w/ a factory V6). Things have changed & the bike just had to

happen.

[Mpilk901]

Can we donate money towards this project?

Cool stuff UO, keep us updated.

[Urbanoutlaw]

I don't think Chris would approve of donations, but thanks anyway.

Today's business. The foot pegs were relocated to "Forward Control", in itself good & improves the feel of a big V-twin.

Unfortunately, the bike got dumped & the repair wasn't perfect. Now the shifter linkage (right side on this model) hits

the front pipe & hampers the operation. Time to fix that.

The other end looks pretty rough as well so I'll take care of that as well.

The linkage is off & the shift pedal just hangs upside down, showing how much help it needs. eventually I'll replace it.

A clearer shot of the two Mounting bolts. To fix the clearance problem I'll install longer bolts & space the pegs out about

1 inch.

Here's a shot of the oil pump (under the crankcase) & the oil pressure sending unit. The sending unit was unhooked

as it also had clearance issues, also solved by spacing the pegs out.

The assembly after removal.

Another detail shot.

Here's the other side, the rear brake. It also needs a little attention since it has clearance issues w/ the drive chain.

The back of the linkage where it attaches to the transfer rod to control a brake mounted on the opposite side. The

red lines represent how long of a bushing I'll require.

Well, done for today, it's starting to drizzle a little & looks like rain, plus the hardware just closed (6:00 PM, Sunday).

If the weather's good tomorrow I'll finish up then.

Edited June 15, 2009 by Urbanoutlaw

[Urbanoutlaw]

.... & We're Back.

A single Allen set screw holds the arm to the transfer rod. Note small catch on back for return spring.

Part removed.

A little looking & I found the perfect bushing in my own scrap pile. In a previous life this was an emission hose off a

'77 Pinto. Red line represents where it needs to be cut.

Bushing installed, now the transfer rod won't run into the drive chain. Looks like someone blew up the clutch, judging

from the welding. Good thing it went back & not up.

The finished product, complete w/ nice new Allenheads.

Back to the Shifter -

The original bolts that held the pedals & controls. In one side through the frame w/ a nut on the other side. Besides

mounting the forward controls they also spaced the front frame tubes apart & added rigidity. The problem is longer

bolts would probably be too week (it they could even be had, would probably have to use "all thread"). Inspiration hit

overnight & I figured a better way to do this. Red lines represent inside the frame rails.

Since I changed the setup, the front pipe had to come off.

I figured I could bolt each side independently, using a 3/8 nut to move the controls out from the frame & bridge

them w/ a barrel nut to keep the frame spaced.

Something like this.

Then I noticed another clearance issue, this time the mount hitting the bottom of the crankcase.

Another job for my new friend, Mr. grinder.

This shot shows how badly the part was cobbled after the bike was dumped.

The result of my creative engineering.

(Insert lots of cussing here.) The red line shows where the pedal SHOULD be.

I wasn't kidding when I said the part was cobbled, the shifter is at the wrong angle to be usable when riding & if it's

adjusted to a usable position, it drops down before it shifts gears. Eventually I'll have yo replace the part but for now

I can cut the lower tab off & weld it back in the right place. I'll get to that in a few days, tomorrow's busy & I'll have

a buddy weld it in his shop.

Later.

Edited June 16, 2009 by Urbanoutlaw

[Urbanoutlaw]

It's been a few days & payday finally showed up, back to that pesky shifter.

The tab on the shifter needs to be moved -

I'll do this w/ a cut-off wheel on the grinder. It's the thin piece I'm holding for comparison to the grinding wheel.

Cut along the welds like so-

Once the welds are cut, a gentle tap breaks the tab loose.

The tab now removed. The assembly is starting to look a little rough, think I'll end up painting it.

Keep a pair of pliers handy, grinding tends to make the metal get a little hot.

While I'm at it, I'll clean up some of the previous welding. Can't miss it, it looks like bird shit.

An old Pepsi glass is just the right size to hold the pedal at the right angle. Note the black marks to line up the tab.

At this point I had to take a couple days because I didn't have a place for this, my welder. It's a professional grade

unit & just the ticket for body shops or anything up to 1/4 plate (in 1 pass). Got a helluva deal on it when it was new

almost 20 years ago. Now I just need someplace to set it up.

Problem solved, got a corner of a warehouse in trade for a little mechanical work. It's kind of a mess but clearing it

counts towards my rent.

For about $1 each, I got these red welder's magnets. This'll hold the tab at the right angle & place so I can weld it.

TURN ON THE BUBBLE MACHINE!!!

For a strong weld, hit both sides.

Tab is welded & the gouges are filled, part looks a lot better.

After a little dressing w/ the grinder, it's ready for paint.

That's it for now. Later.

[Wheelman101]

Dude that is a sick shop. Haha dude if you ever get pulled over and they see the welds on the bike they might send you in for a VI, so be careful and clean the welds up

[Urbanoutlaw]

No welds on the frame itself (that aren't factory) so no probs there. besides, that's why you clean them up w/ the

grinder & paint it.

[Urbanoutlaw]

...& We're back.

So I took a couple nights & cleaned up the shop a little, now I have a decent place to work.

This should work nicely-

Ready to install.

Shifter in place & works properly. Note the tab is now pointing straight down but the shifter is at a decent angle & now

matches the brake on the other side.

Finished job w/ exhaust installed.

One more thing done, just a few hundred to go. I probably won't get to ride this weekend but I'm a little closer.

Later.

[Wheelman101]

clean up those spokes on the rim, give it a good shine.

[Urbanoutlaw]

It's on the list, although the wheels will probably be replaced soon.

If I'm feeling better tonight I'll tackle the battery box & have some more pics.